• Check the DVLA V5 form (Vehicle registration document) has got a watermark. 
• The person it is registered to is the person selling the car. 
• Check the date of registration, registration number and VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) correspond to the car.
• Cars over three years old must have a valid MOT certificate to confirm they are roadworthy. 
• Check the mileage on the MOT to the vehicle, has it covered excess mileage or is the mileage a lot less. 
• Check the MOT certificate has been filled in correctly and corresponds to the car, also check for the MOT testers signature.
• Make sure the Service Record is filled in correctly and the mileage, date, and dealer/garage stamp is on all previous service intervals. 
• Confirm the car has not just missed a service or will soon be due one. 
• If some of the service intervals are not stamped, or the car will soon be due a service you may be able to negotiate a cheaper price for the car.

Check the Chassis Number (VIN)

• All cars have a VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), this is shown on a metal plate under the bonnet, under the carpets by the drivers door.
• On some cars all or part of the VIN is etched onto the windows, or is visible through the windscreen on a plate (Sometimes on the dashboard or A-pillar). 
• Check the VIN matches the paperwork.
•  When inspecting a metal VIN plate look to see it has not been removed, replaced, or damaged in anyway.

• Check that the front and rear wheels are in line with each other. 
• Check all wheels (inc. spare) for damage from hitting kerbs, etc, especially if they are alloy wheels. 
• Check the tyres (inc. spare) for amount of tread (UK legal requirement is 1.6mm), irregular wear, unevenness, splits, bulges, etc. 

• Check all over the bodywork for ripples, dents, paint chips, and poorly matched paintwork. 
• All doors, boot and bonnet should open and close properly and have even gaps all round. 
• Look for signs of paint respraying such as over spray on trim. 
• Check for corrosion on door bottoms, sills, wheel arches, lower body, underbody, and exhaust.
• Check for paint bubbling or plastic filler repairs which indicate bad repairs. 
• Check exterior mirrors are undamaged and adjustment works, especially on electric mirrors.
• If fitted check the sunroof opens and closes properly.

• Do all locks work, including the boot and petrol cap? 
• Is there just one key. 
• If a car has a key for each lock the vehicle may have been stolen or broken into. 
• If fitted does the central locking work.

• Check glass etchings to be the same all round. 
• Check that all the glass has the same colour tint or is clear.
• Check all weather strips and seals are intact and there is no signs of leaks.

• Check for cracks and chips in light lenses, and make sure they work.

• Number plates which are cracked or damaged so some digits are unreadable are illegal for road use, as are number plates with improperly spaced digits. 
• Does that 'Private Plate' look as appealing when correctly spaced?

• When the engine is cold check the oil and water levels (On automatics also check the gearbox level). 
• Remove the oil filler cap, if the oil looks 'milky' there is water mixed in with the oil which could be a possible head gasket failure or worse.
• Expect oil on the engine and surrounding areas, but not excessive amounts. 
• Check the fan belts and timing belts are not cracked or worn. 
• Check the battery and terminals are secure. 
• Look at the sellers drive way for oil patches, are these from your prospective new car?

• Check the body colour under the bonnet matches the exterior colour, but be aware that some cars have a matt black or grey underbody paint as from factory. 
• Check for ripples on the front inner wings as these could indicate signs of accident damage.

• Check the radiator for leaks or damage. 
• Check the water hoses and header tank for splits and leaks.

• Check the interior condition is consistent with mileage. A low mileage car should not have worn or damaged seats. 

• Check all the trim matches. 
• Look for burns and tears in seats and carpets. 
• Feel the carpet under the mats in the front and back, if its damp water could be leaking in.
• Also check the boot carpet for damp and check underneath for corrosion. 
• Stains on the seats could be due to a leaking sunroof.

• Check the operation of the switches and what they work. 
• If fitted check the electric windows and sunroof open and close properly.

• The engine should start and tick over quietly and evenly. 
• If the start motor is noisy when engaged the starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth may be loose or broken. Or the starter is faulty or loose. 

• Make sure all engine warning lights (and if fitted the ABS and airbag warning lights) illuminate with the ignition on and go out shortly after the engine has been started. 

• Blue smoke indicates a worn engine.

• Diesels can sound a bit clattery when cold, this is normal. 
• Tapping or rattling noises could be faulty hydraulic tappets, worn valve gear or camshaft, worn timing belt and tensioner, or ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator). 
• Knocking or thumping noises could be worn big end bearings (regular heavy knocking, usually less under load), worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, usually getting worse under load), piston slap (more noticeable when cold), or ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator). 
• Whistling or wheezing noises may be leaking manifold gaskets or exhaust downpipe to manifold joint, leaking vacuum hose, or blowing cylinder head gasket. 
• Other noises could come from a leaking, corroded or damaged exhaust system. 
• Knocking or banging noises from under the car could be caused by broken exhaust mountings causing body or suspension contact.

• Test drive the car on a variety of roads.
• See if you can park it easily and that the seats are comfortable, especially if you suffer from back problems.
• The car should accelerate smoothly and steadily without any hesitation. 
• Check for any strange noises. 
• If the car is fitted with cruise control or a trip computer, now's the time to test them - but keep your eyes on the road as well. 
• Engage top gear at about 30mph and accelerate, if the engine revs rise but the speed doesn't it means the clutch is slipping.
• If the car takes a long time to get to operating temperature and the heater only blows cold air, then the thermostat probably needs replacing (Not a serious problem).

• When turning or ideally making a slow three point turn (lock to lock) listen for cracking or clicking noises when moving as these indicate worn drive shafts or constant-velocity joints.
• Vibration when accelerating or decelerating may be caused by a bent or distorted driveshaft.

• The brakes should be responsive.
• Cars fitted with ABS should skid in short bursts or not skid at all when used hard.
• The car should stop in a straight line, if it pulls to one side it could mean a seized caliper or damaged pads on one side. 
• If the brakes squeal or grind the discs and pads probably need replacing. 
• Check the handbrake holds the car on a steep hill.
• Excessive brake travel could be a faulty master cylinder or air in the hydraulic system. 
• If the brakes feel spongy there may be air in the hydraulics, or the rubber brake hoses have deteriorated, or the master cylinder is faulty.
• If the brakes require a lot of effort to stop this may be because of a faulty vacuum servo unit or hose, primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure, seized brake caliper piston, badly fitted pads, or even incorrect pads fitted.
• If the car judders under braking this is usually due to warped or distorted discs. 

• The steering should be responsive and easy, especially if fitted with power steering.
• The vehicle pulling to one side could be caused by something simple like low tyre pressure or something more serious like wheel alignment or excessive suspension and steering wear.
• Wheel wobble or vibration is probably just a road wheel out of balance.

• The clutch should be easy to operate and not slip or release when the peddle is almost back at the top.  

• Gears should be easy to engage and not crunch or grind.
• The car should respond in all gears
• On automatics make sure kick down responses with acceleration.

• The car should handle reasonably well depending on what it is, a sportscar will obviously handle better than a 4x4.
• Check for excessive body roll or bounce.
• Listen for knocking or clonking noises

PLEASE NOTE - THIS IS FOR INFORMATION ONLY

WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS YOU MAY ENCOUNTER WHEN BUYING OR SELLING A CAR.